gdp's Comments

http://www.geoffslandroverblog.com/ : Geoffs Series 3 Land Rover Restoration Blog

Tue, 14 May 2019 03:06:03 +0000

Yes lots. The vinegar mix is good to start with and play around so you can get used to plating without wrecking an expensive bought mix. But the commercial mixes will give a much brighter result especially for zinc. They contain brightness for a start. And also for Zinc you’ll probably want to clear passivate it afterwards as well.

http://www.geoffslandroverblog.com/ : Geoffs Series 3 Land Rover Restoration Blog

Thu, 2 May 2019 10:25:03 +0000

I just took it into repco and found a round filter about the right size. It was a bit thin, so I sealed a length of black rubber tube onto one side to space it up a bit. Not the answer you’re probably looking for, sorry!

http://www.geoffslandroverblog.com/ : Geoffs Series 3 Land Rover Restoration Blog

Thu, 28 Mar 2019 20:30:03 +0000

Haha, sounds fun!

http://www.geoffslandroverblog.com/ : Geoffs Series 3 Land Rover Restoration Blog

Thu, 16 Aug 2018 01:05:03 +0000

Thanks for getting in touch Rob. I'll send an email to your address that comes through with the notification. If you don’t hear from me, please send an email with the price etc to flickgeoffanemail@gmail.comAnother guy from Great Barrier already helped me out with the gear lever but thanks for that offer as well! I’m a little behind on the youtube updates…
Cheers

http://www.geoffslandroverblog.com/ : Geoffs Series 3 Land Rover Restoration Blog

Tue, 14 Aug 2018 09:23:03 +0000

Hey Atze, I haven’t got to painting the chassis yet. But yes I will be using something like dinitrol inside, and some kind of paint on the outside. Maybe POR15, but I haven’t decided yet. I put hardened valve seats in mine because I was reconditioning the head anyway.The lead just stops the valves sticking to the seats if things get crazy hot, which can cause pitting. We haven’t had leaded fuel available in NZ since the early eighties, and there are plenty of old land rovers chugging around.I would just run it as is and change to hardened seats when there is another excuse to get that far into the engine.
I’ve continued the Land Rover project over on Youtube. .https://youtu.be/8Umuf-j2bMg

http://www.geoffslandroverblog.com/ : Geoffs Series 3 Land Rover Restoration Blog

Tue, 7 Aug 2018 21:53:03 +0000

No sorry, I don’t really know apart from what you’ve already mentioned. I’d probably start by bypassing the vehicles wiring and test the starter motor directly.

http://www.geoffslandroverblog.com/ : Geoffs Series 3 Land Rover Restoration Blog

Mon, 30 Jul 2018 23:38:03 +0000

They’re all original. Just cleaned.

http://www.geoffslandroverblog.com/ : Geoffs Series 3 Land Rover Restoration Blog

Sat, 26 May 2018 05:25:03 +0000

Try thi shttp://www.geoffslandroverblog.com/resources/4_gearbox_axles_props_suspension.pdf />and thi shttp://www.geoffslandroverblog.com/resources/3_engine_gearbox.pdf

http://www.geoffslandroverblog.com/ : Geoffs Series 3 Land Rover Restoration Blog

Sun, 17 Sep 2017 11:40:03 +0000

Hey Jeff
You might be right about that, but do you mind telling us why...

http://www.geoffslandroverblog.com/ : Geoffs Series 3 Land Rover Restoration Blog

Thu, 24 Aug 2017 09:55:03 +0000

Yeah, the swivel pins are a big job and probably the least likely cause of the problem. Mine wandered all over the road terribly before I rebuilt the front axle. Now I can cruise at 85km with one hand lightly resting on the wheel, and thats with retread cross ply tires.

There's only really three things that can cause the steering to wander. The swivel pins, the ball joints, or the steering alignment - and I guess it could be wheel bearings as well. It should be pretty obvious if it's the swivel pins or bearings are causing the problem. I'd start by lifting the wheels up, and unless something feels obviously loose when you tug on the top and bottom of the wheel, the swivel pins and bearings are probably not the issue.

It's likely is that the wheel alignment is out. It definitely was on mine. I think garages stuff this up by setting the wheels dead straight more like you would for a front wheel drive car. The drag link that goes between the two steering arms has to be the right length to get the correct toe in. You can easily check if the alignment is correct by measuring between the inside of the wheel rims at the front and back of the wheel with a tape measure to compare the difference. The haynes manual and land rover manual have the numbers in them. I set mine just with a tape measure, nothing fancy. If it's out you adjust the length of the drag link by threading the ball joints in or out. In theory you can do this with it still in place by just turing the drag link bar with a monkey wrench (the threads at each end are opposite so it gets longer or shorter as you turn it against the ball joints), but in reality the threads are probably so seized that you'll have to crack the ball joints and adjust it in a vice or something.

http://www.geoffslandroverblog.com/ : Geoffs Series 3 Land Rover Restoration Blog

Mon, 31 Jul 2017 05:02:03 +0000

Hi Amy. Mega trip.

I purchased all of my gearbox parts from the UK. But there are a couple of places worth trying in NZ. classic4x4parts.co.nzsell new series parts. I think you’ll be lucky if they have specific internal gearbox parts on the shelf, but maybe. I have purchased stuff from them in the past.

There is a second hand/new Land Rover parts dealer between Hamilton and Rotorua. I think they mostly deal in new models, but worth a call.Mamaku 4WD07-332 5630. I think they are involved in the Land Rover club so they can probably help you out even if they dont have what you want on the shelf.

And lastly here’s a guy I’ve purchased second hand parts from in the past. He seems to sell a lot of series stuff. I think he might run a wrecking yard in the south island. Not sure - I’ve only communicated over email.Noel Harper landibits@gmail.com

Don’t bother with any of the Land Rover dealers. At best they’ll ring one of the guys above.

Good luck with the trip. Sounds amazing. Where is the end destination?

http://www.geoffslandroverblog.com/ : Geoffs Series 3 Land Rover Restoration Blog

Sun, 14 May 2017 20:41:03 +0000

Hi Bryce. Yeah, I think they can sag if they’re pushed beyond their limit. I don't think cleaning them will fix any sagging, it just allows them to flex more smoothly. I read somewhere that series land rovers were set up to ride slightly higher on the driver side though. I don’t know if that’s a fact or just something I read on a forum.

http://www.geoffslandroverblog.com/ : Geoffs Series 3 Land Rover Restoration Blog

Tue, 25 Apr 2017 09:35:02 +0000

Hi Ben. Good luck with your project. I definitely prefer to keep the vehicle as whole as possible during the process. Preferably drivable after each major stage. Probably with my project I’ll strip the entire vehicle apart when it comes time to paint the bode but at least everything else is already done.

I reckon that unless you’re a full time pro, it’s way to drawn out and disheartening to deal with the entire project as one giant pile of parts. Probably takes a little longer overall to do one section at a time, and put the car back together each time, but at least you can never get in over your head that way.

Cheers

http://www.geoffslandroverblog.com/ : Geoffs Series 3 Land Rover Restoration Blog

Sun, 2 Apr 2017 08:42:17 +0000

Haha,thanks Simon. I had hell with the transmission brake clips as well. I think I ended up finding a photo of them in the correct order.

http://www.geoffslandroverblog.com/ : Geoffs Series 3 Land Rover Restoration Blog

Fri, 30 Dec 2016 04:43:03 +0000

Haha. Cheers Mark. It was a bit of an adventure.

http://www.geoffslandroverblog.com/ : Geoffs Series 3 Land Rover Restoration Blog

Sun, 18 Dec 2016 19:27:03 +0000

Cheers Mike. Right now not much is happening as far as refurbishing the Land Rover. It's in daily use as my vehicle. I will pick up the blog again when the project continues.

http://www.geoffslandroverblog.com/ : Geoffs Series 3 Land Rover Restoration Blog

Wed, 3 Aug 2016 11:34:21 +0000

I have ordered from paddock spares in the past but I normally order from www.lrdirect.com from the uk. I favour them because they give you the option of purchasing the different brands for each part, the website quotes shipping (paddocks you have to email for a quote), and the website converts and charges in NZD, which is what is shown on the customs declarations so you can accurately stay under the GST/duty threshold. Their postage rates have gone up heaps lately tho, so might shop around when I next order. If I just need one part I try and buy in NZ. Have used classic4x4parts.co.nz before.

http://www.geoffslandroverblog.com/ : Geoffs Series 3 Land Rover Restoration Blog

Wed, 3 Aug 2016 11:21:52 +0000

Thanks Nick. WR Wills in Whakatane

http://www.geoffslandroverblog.com/ : Geoffs Series 3 Land Rover Restoration Blog

Tue, 31 May 2016 01:56:02 +0000

Hi Tom. Yes, the valve stem seals I used were Britpart. Different part numbers for exhaust/inlet. Let me know how the vin inspection goes. Cheers, Geoff.

http://www.geoffslandroverblog.com/ : Geoffs Series 3 Land Rover Restoration Blog

Sun, 24 Apr 2016 00:01:14 +0000

Thanks Nav. Appreciate the comment.